Volkswagen Type 2 Musings

We recently removed a well-worn CompuFire distributor from our Volkswagen Bay Window Type 2 and fitted a "like new" VW factory distributor - back to the stock configuration. However, after doing so, our VDO tach now read approximately 1500 rpms too high and the needle bounced all over the place while driving. Upon investigation on TheSamba, we discovered the tach needed a supplement, inline diode to stop "ghost" signals interfering with the signal to the tach. The needed diode was a #1N4005 type with the silver marked end going toward the tach. We created the diode fix as shown, installed it on the VW Bus, and the tach is now back to normal; no bouncing , no inflated readings, and no wild swings. RPMs are steady and correct.

 We bought our '76 Volkswagen Bay Window Type 2 this Spring, so have never really needed a heater nor tested it. As colder days are around the corner, I took a look today to try to see why we get zero heat with both red levers all the way down. First, I ran the bus, and with both the red levers down, was able to verify that the fan in the engine compartment does run. Secondly, with engine off, I looked at the heat exchanger control flaps. Both have the same issue that the cable is too loose at the flap. With the red lever all the way down, the flaps barely move when using the red levers. I can manually pull the the heat flaps open. I'd say I'm losing 90% of possible opening. With the dash lever up, the cable has a bend in it between the valve lever and the cable mount (under the vehicle). I assumed I could slacken the nut on the lever-arm and take up the slack, but the cable has a "flattened" end that only seems to pull through so far. I was looking for an adjuste